Oak is one of those discerning elements of wine, whether it has it, whether it doesn’t.
Oak imparts certain characteristics and aromas into the chemistry of the wine. Oak is much more than just a brewing vessel, it leaves its mark. Wines that spend time in oak will have different aromas and flavours than wines made in stainless steel. The oaking gives wine a buttery feel in the mouth, making rounder wines that can really cover your whole palate. They can inject flavours and aromas of wood, smoke, vanilla and chocolate. Wines that are made without the presence of oak tend to be a crisper style, with a higher acidity. The flavours and aromas that spring out of stainless steel made wines tend to be more elemental and fruity, like flint and citrus notes.
Sometimes a winemaker is looking for a crisp acidic style but also oak characteristics and flavourings – two wine styles can be blended together, ideally showcasing the best aspects of each separately made wine. The grape juice can be separated at the beginning, wine made in different in vessels and blended back together to add contrasting elements.
There are different types of oak barrels available for making wine. American oak is more porous, with larger wood pores that give more surface contact with the wine compared to French oak which is less porous wood and is a gentler oak on the wine. This solitary element of the actual barrel can take identical juice and transform it in surprisingly different ways. It is also common to char the inside of the wine barrel – actually firing the barrel and toasting the wood on the inside – leaving a much different product to touch the wine and infuse flavour. Charred barrels bring out more pronounced flavours of smoke and chocolate as well as other unique flavours like bacon that can develop from the process.
There are many people who avoid oak in their wines; but with knowledge comes appreciation, and as people learn that oak can leave a small impression or a large one, it becomes easier to be appetized by and digest the subtle stamp that oak leaves on wine.
Wine of the Week
Flaio Primitivo 2007 [Salento, Italy]
Nice jammy fruits with prominent smells of bacon, rhubarb, green peppers and blueberry juice; a bit of anise also shows in the heat of the nose. Rich fruit flavours with raspberries and some clean smoky flavours of charred oak and grilled berries. Very easy drinking and easily paired with tomato based dishes. 90/100 (October 22)